ABOUT WOOD
The majority of hardwood
comes from hotter climates, namely tropical areas. Many of the hardwoods
used in Chinese furniture were not native to China, but were introduced
to China through trade. Chinese furniture is treasured for its value
from meticulous craftsmanship, joinery, design, and cultural
significance as well as for its wood.
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Shrinking and Swelling and its effects on furniture
Exceptional furniture construction begins with wood, and since wood is a
natural material, it has characteristics that require special consideration.
When trees are harvested, they have quite a bit of moisture in them. The
moisture will dry out over time if the wood is allowed to age. A combination of
air and kiln drying systematically controls moisture content and prevents wood
from splitting.
The grain of the wood can expand and contract for years, even if the wood is
kiln dried and finished. Heat and humidity affect the expansion and
contraction. Sometimes this expansion/contraction will cause a split in a piece
of solid wood furniture. This is particularly true when furniture is stored in
contrasting hot/cold temperature extremes and humid/dry conditions.
Most of our items are made of elm and elm can split or warp if it is not used correctly and the fault can lie with the consumer just as much as the maker! The atmosphere in homes has been much drier because of Air conditioners and dehumidifiers and this has caused problems for all wood furniture. If your piece is placed by a window - with no curtains - in direct sunlight - it's being hit by strong sun and cold dry air from the A/C. Makers of new furniture have tried to overcome the problems by using veneers in construction and by drying more of the moister out of the timber before it's used. But this does not guarantee against splitting.
Shrinking and swelling of wood occurs as a result of the response of the wood to changes in atmospheric humidity. In general, shrinking and swelling cannot be prevented.
The
key is not in the fluctuating relative humidity, but rather in how
quickly it affects the furniture. Wood responds to stresses, provided that those stresses are gradual. In
general, splitting becomes probable when the relative humidity drops 25% to 50%.
Note, however, that if the drop occurs over several months, a piece
of furniture may be able to survive a 40% drop without damage; if
the drop in relative humidity occurs over one week, then damage may
occur after only a 25% drop.
Today
checking the humidity percentages for Hong Kong in one day : it
started at 70% and within an hour climbed to 80% and mid day dropped
to 40%. That's a 50% drop in a few hours, not a week.
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NEW FURNITURE - NEW WOOD: Please review the next page on large factories vs small factories. Our factories are not climate controlled. The craftsmen are working in extreme heat and humidity in the summer and cold dry air in the winter. If the wood is kiln dried for 4 weeks (however wood should be conditioned for at least a year) - it is still exposed and absorbing moisture in the uncontrolled atmosphere of the warehouse while under production. It's then crated and moved to your home where there is still another environmental change. Be prepared for what might happen.
There is no way to get around this - we are not manufacturing in Northern China or large sophisticated compounds that require minimum orders.
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Cracking and Warping
Wood is a natural material and it may or may not have the characteristic of splitting or cracking. We don't know when it will happen or if it will happen. Manufacturing at different times of year can be
better than others - for instance in the Fall when there is less humidity. Air conditioning in the summer, heat in the winter and direct sunlight can all be factors that affect the wood while in your home.
We work with about 6 factories - these are small Chinese factories making furniture the old world way....you won't find
huge compounds with assembly lines, you will find 'not everything is perfect',
none the less I am able to discover a piece of furniture that will
last, suit my budget, and fulfill my needs - some of it treasured items
from another century, well worth taking a risk on. Some items that are
designed and special ordered might have slight imperfections in the
wood but will obtain a 'cottage' charm and the prices are incredible .
We do not guarantee that any of the items purchased will not
crack or warp. Many of the items we make have the aged and antique look to
give the piece more personality if this does occur.
Items 80 years and older are less likely to crack. They've had years to expand and contract. Sometime when making new items - we request the use of old wood - if it is available - and create an aged look reproduction.
ALL SALES ARE FINAL
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Please contact us if you need an item repaired. We have a reliable repair person available.
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Humidity and Heat
All wood used for furniture construction needs to be properly dried to a
certain humidity level to help prevent the wood from splitting. Drying is done
by a combination of air drying and kiln drying. Wood that has been cut into
boards is stacked so that air can circulate through it. Forklifts move the
stacks into room-sized ovens. The wood is then gently heated to remove excess
moisture and stabilize the wood.
Even finished furniture can develop
open cracks where heat and humidity fluctuations cause the wood grain to open
in what is known as a "season crack". It is important to keep
furniture in places where it isn't exposed to excessive heat, cold, dryness or
humidity.
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The table below presents the characteristics of
the most commonly used woods. Grades 1-4 (grade 1 is the best) designate
the hardwoods while grades 5-7 designate the lesser quality and
more commonly available softwoods.
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| Chinese homophone |
English |
Colour |
Characteristics |
Grade |
| Zitan |
Red Sandalwood |
Reddish-brown to golden-yellow |
Shimmering surface with
abstract patterns |
1 |
| Huanghuali |
Yellow Rosewood |
Blackish-purple to blackish-red |
Fine, lustros suurface |
2 |
| Jichimu |
Chicken-wing Wood |
Deep
brown |
Brown, gray patterns
resembling feathers |
3 |
| Tieli |
Iron
Wood |
Grayish
black |
Coarse texture |
4 |
| Hongmu |
Chinese Mahogany |
Reddish-brown to blackish-red |
Used only after the 18th
century |
5 |
| Nanmu |
Evergreen Laurel |
Olive-brown to reddish-brown |
Shimmering surface, smooth
texture |
5 |
| Hetao |
Walnut |
Golden-brown to reddish-brown |
Open-grained texture; fragrant |
6 |
| Jumu |
Southern
Elm |
Yellowish-brown to coffee-brown |
Medullary rays; feathery
patterns |
6 |
| Zuomu |
Oak |
Grayish-yellow to grayish-brown |
Medullary rays; lustrous flakes |
6 |
| Yumu |
Northern
Elm |
Yellowish-brown to
chestnut-brown |
Layered, feather-like patterns |
7 |
| Zhangmu |
Camphor |
Reddish-brown |
Light/dark striped
pattern; strong fragrance |
7 |
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Pinyin |

English |

Properties |
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Bai mu |

Cypress |

An incredibly dense and smooth blonde wood,
without obvious grain, found in both Northern and Southern Chinese
furniture. A finished Bai wood surface is like that of satin or silk to
the eyes or to the touch of the hand. Seems much denser and harder than
the American Cypress. This wood is also recognized in Ming furniture.
Northern furniture made with Bai wood is often more prized than that
made with Southern Bai wood. |
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He tao mu
hardwood |

Walnut |

With large beautiful and more delicate grain
than that of Yu wood. Very dense wood. Usually found in Northern
Chinese furniture. It is considered a rare and better wood by furniture
dealers and collectors in China. Ming and Ching furniture made with this
wood can occasionally still be found today. |
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Hua li mu
hardwood |

Rosewood |

With pleasant lighter yellow hue, unlike
most of the dark heavy rosewood, and is probably the least expensive
rosewood. A wood often confused for Huanghuali wood by amateurs. |
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Huang hua li
hardwood |

Yellow Rose Wood |

There are apparently over sixty variety of
Rosewood in the world. Therefore, rosewood is only a general term for
some particular types of hardwood. However, Huanghuali is a totally
different species of wood from what we normally call rosewood. "Huang",
however, does mean yellow. A world-wide collectable and museum
sought-after wood for Ming scholar's furniture. |
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Hong mu
hardwood |

Mahogany |

Also considered a type of rosewood. Often
used in prominent Ching Dynasty furniture. It is probably the heaviest
and the most dense rosewood. Most popular collectible wood by coastal
Chinese, such as Taiwanese, Cantonese, and Shanghainese collectors |
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Ji chi mu
hardwood |

Phoenix Tail or Chicken Wing Wood |

This name came from its tight and
feather-like grain resembling the iridescent quality of lights and
shadows on some chicken or pheasant's feathers. It is an expensive wood
often used for Ching Palace furniture. There are few examples of Ming
Dynasty furniture made with Ji chi mu that exist. Old furniture made
with Ji chi mu ranks with furniture made with Zitan or huanghuali.
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Ju mu |

Southern Chinese Elm |

Probably the most praised and used Chinese
soft wood for Ming furniture. Southern Elm is considered better and less
common wood than Northern Elm (Yu Mu.) The grain is a little tighter
and a little more refined than that of a Northern Elm. |
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Liu mu |

Willow |

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Nanyu mu |

Southern Elm |

This term is often used by Northern Chinese
furniture dealers or the Northern Chinese wood workers to differentiate
that of the Northern Elm |
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Shan mu |

China Fir |

Common wood used in many of the Southern Chinese provincial furniture pieces, buckets, stools, cabinets, etc. |
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Song mu |

Pine |

Commonly used in many of the less expensive
Southern Chinese furniture pieces. For example, kitchen cabinets w/
lattice design, or Hong Chu. |
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Tie li mu
hardwood |

Iron Wood |

Poorman's Ji Chi Mu. It has similar color
and grain like Ji Chi Mu, but not as dense and heavy. This wood was also
used in Ming furniture. Ming furniture made with Tie li mu is costly
but can occasionally be found and bought in China |
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Xiang mu
or Gao li mu
hardwood |

Oak |

Gao Li is a term for ancient Korea. This
means this wood is not native to China and came from Northern border.
This is why some of the Mongolian style folding chairs were made of this
wood. |
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You mu |

Teak |

Teak timber is valued in warm countries
principally for its extraordinary durability. In India and in Burma,
beams of the wood in good preservation are often found in buildings many
centuries old, and teak beams have lasted in palaces and temples more
than 1,000 years. The timber is practically imperishable under cover.
Teakwood is used for
shipbuilding, fine furniture, door and window frames, wharves, bridges,
cooling-tower louvres, flooring, paneling, railway cars, and venetian
blinds. An important property of teak is its extremely good dimensional
stability. It is strong, of medium weight, and of average hardness.
Termites eat the sapwood but rarely attack the heartwood; it is not,
however, completely resistant to marine borers.
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Ying Mu
hardwood |

Burl wood |

Burl wood is a general term for certain cut
of the wood near the root or at the root section. There are several
kinds of burl, some being more expensive than others. Burl, being a
small section of certain variety trees, is scarce in its availability
and is a costly wood since the time of ancient China. It has long been
treasured by Chinese wood workers. It was often used only for the small
surface areas of furniture made with other hardwoods. |
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Yu mu |

Northern Chinese Elm Wood |

Large tree with elaborate and obvious
grain. It is a good wood commonly used for Northern Chinese furniture.
Furniture made of this wood is very popular outside of China for its
solid wood construction and beautiful grain.
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Zao mu
hardwood |

American Oak |

It is not a common wood found in old
furniture surviving today, with the exception of one certain type of
Southern stool with bamboo slats. There are, though rare, examples of
Ming furniture made out of this wood.
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Zhang mu
hardwood |

Camphor Wood |

Found in both Northern and Southern Chinese
furniture. Some of our FC style furniture and carvings are made out of
camphor wood. It is considered a good wood by Chinese because of its
density, grain, and the repellant quality to bugs (similar to cedar.)
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Zitan
hardwood |

Red- Purple Sandal Wood |

"Zi" means purple. "Tan" means Sandle wood.
This is the most expensive wood in the world. It is so dense that it's
the only kind of wood that sinks in water rather than float. In ancient
Chinese literature, it was recorded that Zitan and Huanghuali were worth
as much as and as expensive as gold. It is the most prized and
expensive wood used in Ming and Ching furniture. Few Ming Dynasty Zitan
wood furniture pieces exist outside of museums & famed collections
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Soft Woods and Hardwoods
Solid wood furniture may be made from many types of wood from pine to oak. Softer
woods come from evergreen trees. The grain in the wood is more porous than in
hardwoods, and it may dent more easily. Wood from evergreen trees grows faster,
making it less expensive. Chinese Elmwood
is used instead of Pine – which will have the same characteristics. It is also
a less expensive wood.
Typically these are woods easily sourced by local craftsmen. Since they
are readily available, they are used for more common pieces of
furniture. They comprise the bulk of furniture in today's market,
ranging from Yumu (northern elm) and Huaimu (locust)-in the northern
provinces of Hebei and Shanxi-to Jumu (southern elm)-in Jiangsu
province-and Xiangzhang (camphor)-in the south.
Hardwoods (trees that loose their leaves once a year) like cherry, oak, maple, birch, ash and mahogany
come from deciduous trees. They have a tighter, less porous grain. These trees
take longer to grow and are usually more expensive than soft woods as a raw
material. Their tighter grain makes them harder, so they resist denting more
than soft woods do.
Trees
classified as hardwoods are not necessarily harder than softwoods. Density and
moisture content affect the strength of wood; in addition to load-bearing
strength, other variable factors often tested include elasticity and toughness.
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Best Uses for Solid Wood or Veneers
Solid wood is required for carving; framing a dresser, chest or
entertainment center; and for posts or legs that support furniture. Veneers are
a better choice when using rare or expensive woods, especially to achieve matching
grain patterns throughout the entire piece. Veneer is also an excellent choice
for shapes like curved drawer fronts or where you need to use thin pieces of
wood that have great strength.
Well-done veneers help control the expansion and contraction of wood. Since wood moves in the direction of its
lengthwise grain pattern, gluing strips of wood together with perpendicular
grain patterns helps prevent shrinkage and expansion in the wood. Slices of
wood with lengthwise grain are glued against slices with crosswise grain. When
the lengthwise grain absorbs humidity and tries to lengthen, the crosswise
grain holds it in place.
Solid Wood Doesn't Necessarily Mean Better Construction
You may be bombarded with advertising suggesting that solid wood furniture
is made from "pure" wood and is therefore better quality. Quality
furniture is made with solid woods, veneered woods, and a variety of other
materials. Some solid-wood furniture is well constructed from kiln-dried woods
and is an excellent choice for your home.
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Caring for Furniture
Living with wonderful furniture and protecting it from
damage is often a matter of common sense. Wood furniture is happiest when it
lives in a room that's between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit with the relative
humidity in the 50 - 55% range. Furniture should not be placed in direct
sunlight because it will fade and dry the wood.
If you choose to use a piece of glass on top of a chest or
dresser, place felt disks between the glass and the wood to allow for air
circulation.
Today's furniture lacquers need very little care. There
should never be moisture left on the furniture after dusting. Dust in the
direction of the grain pattern to prevent noticeable scratches from dust
particles. Spray furniture waxes and polishes are not necessary and can cloud
the furniture finish. Wood furniture does not need to be "fed" with
lemon oil or other preparations.
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Varathane Wood Stain Touch-up
marker (by Rust-oleum) are a fast and easy way to touch up minor scratches on stained wood.
Colors complement :
Color Group 1 - Natural, Golden Pecan,
Spring Oak
Color Group 2 - Summer Oak, Traditional Pecan, Ipswich
Pine
Color Group 3 - Chestnut, Colonial Maple
Color
Group 4 - Golden Oak, Provincial, Golden Mahogany
Color Group 5 - Light Cherry, Traditional Cherry
Color Group 6 - Red Oak, Red Chestnut, Red Mahogany
Color Group 7 - Cabernet, Black
Cherry
Color Group 8 - Light Walnut, American Walnut, Gunstock
Color Group 9 - Early American
Color Group 10 - Dark Walnut, Espresso
Unit Rate @HK$70.00/pc.
Local
distributor, Hawking International (HK) Ltd. Please call the direct line of Ms.
Ellie Tao at 2317-1398 or email her at et@hawking.com.hk local
distributor, Hawking International (HK) Ltd. Please call the direct line of Ms.
Ellie Tao at 2317-1398 or email her at et@hawking.com.hk
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